Hebridean Way Bikepacking Adventure - A Photographer’s Dream!
The Outer Hebrides, in the far reaches of Scotland’s Western Isles, are often described as one of the most beautiful places in the UK — and arguably, the world. So it is no surprise that Landscape photographers and those seeking adventure flock to the remote islands in search of beauty in this barren landscape.
The Outer Hebrides, in the far reaches of Scotland’s Western Isles, are often described as one of the most beautiful places in the UK — and arguably, the world. So it is no surprise that Landscape photographers and those seeking adventure flock to the remote islands in search of beauty in this barren landscape.
✅ QUICK FACTS:
Route: The Hebridean Way — ~185 miles / 297km from Vatersay (south) to the Butt of Lewis (north) Outer Hebrides
Islands & links: 10 islands, 6 causeways, 2 ferries
Typical pace: Most riders take 5–8 days (longer if you’re prioritising photos + rest days)
When I rode: Late September 2025 (expect fast-changing weather and big winds)
Key realities: Remote stretches, limited resupply “pit stops”, and single-track roads with passing places
Camping: Scotland allows responsible camping where access rights apply — follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code
This is my real-world itinerary + planning guide for cycling the 185-mile Hebridean Way (with a photographer’s priorities).
🚴♂️ The Hebridean Way - My Adventure…
In late September, 2025 - I attempted to combine these two things with a bIkepacking adventure taking in the Hebridean Way. However, not everything went to plan as this trip pushed me to breaking point!
The Journey Begins - Oban Ferry Port before heading out to the Outer Hebrides
In this post, I will describe what my plan was, the journey itself and offer some tips and guidance for those looking to do a similar trip. This is going to be a long one with a lot of information so consider bookmarking it so you can easily return to it or skim through to the section you need. As always, please leave a comment below with your thoughts and questions and I will always get back to you. To be clear, I am not a bikepacking expert so do plenty of research before planning your own adventure!
❤️ Jump To:
📝 The Plan - GO BIG AND THEN GO HOME!
By the start of 2025, I had got a few little bikepacking trips under my belt and felt the pull of a longer adventure. After a lot of time spent trawling YouTube and Reddit, I kept coming back to the Hebridean Way - a 185+ mile ‘Bucket List’ trip in the bikepacking community that just happened to have beautiful landscapes and reachable from my home location of Birmingham!
Planning started with working out how I would even get there! The islands are only accessible by ferry and even reaching the departure point for the ferry alone felt like an adventure. I would be taking a train to Glasgow before heading out to Oban. After an overnight stay, I would take the ferry crossing to Castlebay at the southerly tip of the route. This alone was a two day trip just to get to the islands.
One of the quirks of the Hebridean Way is planning your return, with the most common route being a ferry crossing from Stornoway in Lewis, back to Ullapool on the Scottish mainland. This all sounded simple enough, even with nearly 200 miles to cover on the days in between. I furthered complicated things by initially planning to go to the Isle of Skye after completing the Hebridean Way - more on this later!
I set about booking all of the train travel, ferry bookings and a couple of nights of accommodation. Throughout my trip, the plan was to wild camp where possible - one of the joys of travelling in Scotland, where this is permitted under the right-to-roam laws. I felt confident that I could cover between 30-40 miles a day so booked all of my homeward travel - this would be my first major mistake
🚴♂️ The Trip - FEELING ALL AT SEA!
I’ll try to keep this brief as there is so much to cram into this post but the trip was obviously spectacular. Even the ferry crossing from Oban to Castlebay on the excellent CalMac Ferries felt like an adventure.
Rough seas battered the ferry and there was an eerie silence amongst the 50 or so passengers and more worryingly, the staff! It’s not something you can really capture on camera but things were already starting to feel very remote as we crept into Castlebay as the sun began to set.
I set foot on the island and was immediately battered by an unrelenting headwind. The wind would not show any signs of calming down for the next two days and as I desperately tried to cycle from the ferry port to the start of the Hebridean Way, with Google Maps setting an ambitious 30 minutes!
The sea was a bit rough!
But the CalMac food was great!
I already felt like I had bitten off more than I could chew. I eventually made it to the start point at around 8pm as the sun began to set and a huge rain storm rolled in. A quick photo to prove I made it to the start point and then back into the wind and rain. Welcome to the Hebrides!
🌅 THE ADVENTURE BEGINS
After abandoning my wild camping romanticism and spending the night in a hostel, I woke up early the next morning to cycle to the top of Barra to get my first ferry to Eriskay. The morning was spectacular, a beautiful sunrise revealed countless rainbows as showers rolled across the island. I stopped several times to take photos with each passing mile revealing even more beauty.
First day of ‘proper’ cycling and already in stunning landscapes…
It took me around 30 minutes to absolutely fall in love with Hebrides, a relationship that would be challenged shortly after crossing Eriskay and its spectacular causeway as the open lands of South Uist provided my first real challenge!
With 30 miles to cover, I was cycling into 40 mile per hour gusts that felt like they were pushing me backwards! With next to no cover from the terrain, the winds ripped through the island and made the cycling feel nearly impossible! My legs were burning by the end of the day and I decided to find a campsite where I could at least have a warm shower.
All hope of a slow, peaceful photography focussed trip seemed to be slipping away. As I attempted to put my tent up in the unrelenting wind, I could feel my will being tested - surely I can't quit after one day of cycling! I just about got the tent up and managed a total of about 3 hours sleep…
🏕️ CARRY ON CAMPING OR HOMEWARD BOUND?
With South Uist under my belt I was praying for better conditions on North Uist - but the Hebrides don't make anything that easy! More headwind but now the hills slowly got worse. “This is why you came here,” I told myself, huddled in a bus stop as rain lashed sideways.
Adventure isn’t supposed to be comfortable - it’s supposed to test you. As one YouTube video sprang to mind, “You have to endure the ups to enjoy the downs” - not quite sage advice for life but certainly sound for the Hebrides - I pushed on!
Over the next few days, I battled my way through North Uist, Harris and Lewis. I stopped to try to take advantage of the scenery and grab some photos but in truth, the journey had felt like so much of a struggle that I just wanted to push on for fear that if I stopped, I might not start again!
As I passed through Leverburgh and round to the beautiful Luskentyre Beach, I felt lifted as the spectacular beauty of the islands seemed to pull me further along the road, just waiting for what was around the next corner. It was just a shame that the grey skies didn’t open up for a few minutes but you can’t have it all!
Luskentyre Beach is a ral Landscape Photographers Dream!
🥃 Whiskey Business!
The scenery was undoubtedly beautiful. Harsh, rugged landscapes gave way to the crashing waves of the North Atlantic Ocean. Wild birds fought against the winds in what felt like the onset of a storm - to the islanders, this was a calm day…
Showers rolled in and out without warning and any desire to stop and indulge in landscape photography was quickly replaced with the urge to get to the next rest point, or at least a shop and an opportunity to find a bit of food - as with everything here, they were few and far between.
After paying a trip to the wonderful Harris Distillery I was immediately brought back down to earth, with the most challenging climb of the route - a big push over the top of Bunavoneader! I’m not too proud to admit that I did push the bike indeed, this had been another challenging day and there was no way to finish it! I treated myself to a night in another hostel, my legs at least would thank me.
Expect some big climbs on the Hebridean Way!
🤦♂️ FEELING DEFLATED
I still had a couple of days travelling ahead of me but as I crawled my way towards Balallan, the worst finally happened - my first puncture! Well, my tubeless setup was miraculously leaking air. I couldn’t see any obvious problems so I pumped up the tyre and got on my way.
A few miles down the road and the same again, something was not right! Feeling dejected, I got to a crossing where if I wanted to bail on my trip, I could just shoot for Stornoway and civilisation. Or, I could stick to the plan and head along the remote route to the Calanais (Callanish) Standing Stones.
After another strong chat with myself, I did the latter… And I am so glad I did. Several more ‘pump’ stops later, I made it to the Callanish Stones, a spectacular site and reward for my efforts. However, after a 7am start, I only had another 40 miles to get to the end of the Hebridean Way! Seeing as it was only 11am, I made the (some would say) foolish decision to push on - despite my puncture predicament, I wanted to make it to the end!
❌ REACHING A CROSSROADS
To say the next few hours were a struggle would be an understatement - the bike felt like it was buckling under my weight, the tyre refusing to be normal! Worst of all, As I made it to Barvas, I was offered another opportunity to quit and head back to Stornoway!
No! I couldn’t travel all of this way just to give up now. As I got to around 10 miles from the end point, with legs burning and bags sagging, a spoke gave way making the rear of the bike feel like I was rolling on rocks! As I sat by the side of the road, feeling like I could cry - was this it, had I finally been broken?
I felt a bit embarrassed as a car pulled up and a lovely lady (Anne) checked to see if I was OK, the outstanding Hebrides hospitality once again saving me when I needed it. After some strong words of advice, I picked myself up, strapped the bike together as best as I could and pushed on! I don’t think I’ve ever felt more challenged on a bike trip than this but as the Butt of Lewis came into view, the feeling of relief was enormous!
However, I was broken and needed an escape route. After yet more amazing hospitality (a roadside beer from more incredible locals!) I dashed for a bus heading back to Stornoway. I threw the bike in the luggage hold and bit my tongue as the driver said “I’ve seen you a few times today, usually pumping your tyre up”... Cheers mate!
🚳 THE END HAD ONLY JUST BEGUN!
I sat on the bus back to Stornoway cursing my own cycle repair abilities, my eagerness to finish the route and my burning calves. As I flicked through the images on my camera I felt somewhat relieved that I had at least captured a taste of what the Hebrides is about.
Would my photos win any landscape photography awards? Absolutely not. But they’ll always remind me of the grit, beauty, and sheer unpredictability of the Hebrides — and that’s worth every mile.
After finding a room for the night in Stornoway and a much needed hot meal, I looked back on a 70+ mile slog of a day. I was a mix of being amazed that I made it and disappointed in myself that I had rushed it! Something about the desire to ‘get to the end’ had completely taken over the actual reason I was there, to slow down, take some nice photos and enjoy the islands. Us city folk never change it seems and the desire to rush around just wouldn’t leave me.
Cutting the trip short meant that all of the hotels and trains that I had booked for my return leg were now wasted - not the best planning on my behalf! In truth, there were a couple of reasons why I needed to get home sooner but one thing I would definitely do in the future is to be a bit more flexible in how I planned my days. After all, the unexpected happening is about the most predictable part of doing a journey like this!
🥰 EVERY FAILURE IS A CHANCE TO LEARN!
From Stornoway, I had another decision to make. Do I head back to Tarbert, over to Skye and cycle back to Fort William - or get the ferry to Ullapool and head back on the train through Glasgow and back to Birmingham? I’m sure you could guess, my adventure was over and my broken bike (and broken feeling body) meant that any trip around Skye would have to wait for another day!
Looking back on the trip, it was incredible. I met some wonderful people, saw some of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever witnessed and most of all, learnt a lot about myself! I clearly struggle to slow down and I will always regret not spending more time in certain locations.
However, I also learnt that I can put up with a bit of adversity and can see some challenges through to the end. Even if it is the thought of a beer that really pulls me through!
🚲 The Gear - WHAT I PACKED
If you are planning your own trip and are curious, here is a list of the gear I used. I will try to link to as many of the products as I can and some will be Amazon Affiliate links, but these will not cost you any extra.
Bike - Canondale Topstone 4
Front Bag - Altura Waterproof Handlebar Bag
Frame Bag - Tailfinn Medium
Panniers - Ortleib Gravel
Bike Computer - Coros Dura Solar
Handlebar Mirror (essential!) - Hafny Bar End Bike Mirror
Front Light - Magicshine RN 1200
Rear Light - SEEMEE 300
Front Rack - BLB Lite Rack
Rear Rack - Ortleib Quick Rack
Stand - Click Stand
Lock - Abus Bordo Lite Mini
Dry Bags - Sea to Summit Dry Bags 8L
Tent - Durston X-Mid
Sleeping Bag - NewDoar Ultralight
Sleeping Pad - Big Agnes Rapide XL
Cookware - MSR PocketRocket Deluxe
Water Filter - Katadyn BeFree 0.6l
Main Camera - Canon R6 MkII
Lens - Canon RF 24-105mm
GoPro - GoPro Hero 10
🔴 MY 10 QUICK TIPS FOR THE Hebridean Way!
Whatever weather you think you’re going to get, plan for the exact opposite! To say the weather is unpredictable is a massive understatement!
Plan your food and drink properly! Although there are shops, it is easy to fall into the trap of being a long way from your next meal. Also, water is more difficult to come by than you would imagine, even if you are carrying a water filter.
Understand your equipment. It is quite possible to do this trip on older bikes or even bikes that might not feel that suitable, but having decent understanding of basic bike repairs could be a lifesaver!
Fail to plan… I won’t finish the quote but seriously, plan, plan and then plan some more! Having ‘escape routes’ and alternatives if you decide you can’t go on or if a proper storm rolls in is essential - in particular, having a warm shelter could make or break your trip.
It’s a different pace of life - shops are closed on Sundays and despite the locals being incredibly friendly, generally your are out there on your own, so be prepared to be a bit more resourceful than normal!
Phone signal is decent on all islands but the further south, the worse it gets. You may struggle to get internet connection in the south so make sure you save maps offline etc. and you know where you plan to stay each night and how to get there!
The roads are pretty safe but there is a lot of single-track roads with passing points every 100 metres or so. However, if the wind is particularly strong, you won't hear cars behind you! Get a mirror and use it! Oh, and look out for cattlegrids, they can be a nightmare!
Take a really good quality rain jacket, always have some dry socks and underwear to get into! Merino wool t-shirts etc. worked well for me and have some kind of hat/cap to wear with your helmet, those winds can feel brutally cold!
Plan your electronics accordingly - I always had two battery banks, one for daily use and another ‘emergency’ battery bank that I never planned to use, but was there for (you guessed it) emergencies!
Don’t sacrifice safety for weight-savings! I was massively concerned about weight but I’m glad I had a few emergency essentials and a decent toolset with me - if nothing else, the peace-of-mind it gives you is worth the extra grams!
✅ Final Thoughts…
If you are a photographer on the hunt for incredible landscapes, a bikepacker looking for a challenging adventure or both! The Hebridean Way is an incredible option that will certainly leave you feeling rewarded and will certainly give you a few stories to tell. If you catch the weather right, it will be spectacular, catch it wrong and you will feel the full force of these remote islands.
It’s not a trip for the faint-hearted and it certainly helps to have some experience, whether you are choosing to hike, cycle or drive the route. Proper planning is essential and having a Plan B, C and even D is highly recommended. All that aside, it is something I am keen to do again. I just need to lose weight, teach myself some basic bike repair skills and learn how to slow down a bit!
FAQS
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The signed on-road Hebridean Way cycling route runs about 185 miles / 297km, starting at Vatersay and finishing at the Butt of Lewis. It’s way-marked, but you’ll still want offline maps for detours and planning.
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A common timeframe is 5–8 days, depending on fitness, wind, and how often you stop for photos, food, and exploring. If you want a more photography-first pace, plan extra time so you can wait out weather and chase better light.
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Late spring to early autumn usually gives the widest daylight window, but the Outer Hebrides can deliver all four seasons in a day. If you’re going for photos, build flexibility into your schedule so you can pause for conditions and light.
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In many places, yes — if you do it responsibly. Use small tents, camp well away from buildings/roads, avoid enclosed fields with crops or livestock, and leave no trace. In busy areas, managed campsites can be the better option.
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Strongly recommended. CalMac advises booking tickets online in advance (even foot passengers), and you should also keep an eye on service updates, especially in windier seasons. Check the CalMac guidance for taking bikes.
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It’s often decent, but there are weaker areas—especially further south—so download offline maps and keep key notes (stops, ferry times, accommodation options) accessible without data.
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Wind and weather can be brutally changeable, and remote stretches can leave you far from food, water, or shelter. Mechanical issues become “bigger” when you’re tired and exposed, so basic repair confidence is a genuine safety net.
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Many roads are quiet, but you’ll encounter single-track sections with passing places. In strong wind you may not hear vehicles behind you, so a bar-end mirror can be a smart safety upgrade, and cattle grids deserve respect.
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A flexible zoom (like a 24–105) is ideal when you’re prioritising momentum and changing conditions. Keep the camera accessible (not buried), and accept that “perfect light” won’t always align with your legs and the weather.
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Build Plan B/C/D options: bailout points, indoor shelter options, and a buffer day. The route rewards patience — rushing to “finish” can steal the best photos and the best parts of the islands.
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About the Author - Ross Jukes is a professional Photographer and Videographer with over a decade of experience. Working in both Digital and Analogue formats, Ross has worked with international clients, had his worked published numerous times and exhibited his work extensively. With a passion for all things photographic, Ross combines his experience, enthusiasm and dedication to his art form to create engaging and educational content for the photographic community.
Disclaimer: All links to Amazon UK/US are affiliated links - you will still pay the same price but I will receive a small commission. All information provided in this blog is intended either for educational or entertainment purposes and is accurate to the best knowledge of the author. However, further research/professional advice should be sort before making purchases/implementing any advice given and no responsibility is taken by the author or parties mentioned here within.